Car Detailing FAQs

Complete auto detailing entails a thorough interior and exterior cleaning and repair procedure for every part of the vehicle. This includes giving the outside surfaces – the tyres, wheels, paintwork and glass – careful washing, as well as giving the interior surfaces – the upholstery, carpets, dashboard, and others –a complete cleaning and conditioning process. A comprehensive full auto detail will also involve other services to improve the vehicle's look and shield it from the elements, such as paintwork correction, polishing, waxing and other forms of surface protection.

Surface blemishes can be eradicated with proper detailing methods. It's usual practice to remove scratches using specialist techniques such as paint correction through hand or machine polishing. It is crucial to remember that deep scratches and severe paintwork damage might not be completely removed by detailing processes alone and may need more involved repair techniques such as touch-up painting or wet sanding, but they
can be made far less noticeable through standard detailing techniques.

It is possible to make paint chips might look better after a car detailing. To make paint chipping less noticeable, detailers may employ methods like wet sanding, polishing, and touch-up paint application. Even though a full restoration might not always be achievable through detailing alone, paint chips can be greatly reduced in appearance to improve the vehicle's overall appearance.

How often an automobile should be detailed depends on several variables including driving frequency, local weather conditions and individual preferences. To preserve the aesthetic appeal and properly protect the surfaces of your car, it is generally advised to
perform a full detail every three to six months. To maintain the best possible appearance and avoid paint and interior surface damage, more frequent interim car washes and maintenance cleaning may be required, especially if you drive your car daily in challenging conditions or your car is exposed to harmful contaminants such as salt, heavy grime or bird droppings.

Most detailers clean the exterior of the car first before tackling the interior. This approach helps to prevent dirt and grime from the exterior surfaces from being transferred inside the cabin. Although there is no hard and fast rule, starting with the exterior often allows for better results when moving on to the interior cleaning and detailing tasks.

Detailers wash wheels first to avoid potentially harmful contaminants, such as brake dust, salt and corrosive road films, being transferred to potentially sensitive surfaces that have already been cleaned. This is a safety measure employed by detailers to ensure that the most harmful contamination you’ll find in these areas can be cleaned away safely if it is splashed on parts of the car. It also helps to avoid having to wash the most
sensitive surfaces more than once, cutting down on the risk of inflicting
surface damage.  

A basic car wash and a car detail can differ significantly according to who is performing the tasks and how comprehensively or safely the cleaning is performed. A basic car wash may consist of exterior contact washing to get rid of surface dirt and grime, and can be completed by hand or by a mechanical car wash. In many cases the techniques employed may not be the safest in terms of avoiding surface damage. Detailers will perform a car wash but this will employ stages - such as pre washing and snow foaming – to cut down on the chance of inflicting scratches and swirl marks later during the main contact wash. A car detail will often include extra processes such as polishing and adding surface protection, along with comprehensive interior cleaning. Auto detailing seeks to return the vehicle to its ideal state or significantly improve it.  

An engine wash may be included in a car detailing package as part of a thorough cleaning and restoration detail. This deep-cleaning process not only improves aesthetics and,
in many cases resale value, but can even boost vehicle longevity by limiting corrosion of key components due to foreign debris, oil and particulates.

Your detailing should start with washing wheels and tyres, then moving on to pre washing and snow foaming the exterior, next you can contact wash, decontamination wash, polishing and apply applying protection. Interior cleaning can be performed before or after the rest of your detail, or after the cleaning stages before polishing. Don’t forget the final touches at the end to enhance your detail, such as cleaning windows and mirrors and adding a tyre dressing.

Reactive Wheel Cleaner is the best product to regularly fully decontaminate alloy wheels. It’s a unique formulation is perfectly suited for painted, lacquered and powder-coated rims and includes a special fall out remover capable of dissolving embedded ferrous metal particles. Imperial Wheel Cleaner is another product that’s great for regular maintenance, this powerful formula is suitable for all wheel types and finishes, and cuts through surface brake dust and heavy soiling with ease.

Your wheels should be cool to the touch before you start and clean one wheel at a time. Pre rinse to remove loose debris and let your cleaners get to work on bonded grime. Apply your wheel cleaner and agitate into all surfaces with suitable brushes for the wheel type and design. Barrel Brushes or Wonder Wool Wheel Brushes for the inner wheel and soft Detailing Brushes for the lips lug nut recesses. Follow up with all other areas using a Plush Wheel Mitt. Before rinsing clean your tyre with Tread Tyre Cleaner and a Rubber Scrubber Tyre Brush. Then rinse away the contamination.

The correct wheel brush for the type of wheel will never cause unsightly marks.At Auto Finesse, our wheel brushes are super-soft and designed with scratch-less bristles or lambswool/microfibre cleaning media, making them ideal for sensitive finishes. We also have specialist brushes for cleaning tyres and inner arch liners.

Yes, you can use a car shampoo such as Lather Car Shampoo for light cleaning on fully protected alloy wheels because the wax or coating will have stopped the contamination from sticking. A shampoo is also useful for brushing in other spray on cleaners, acting as a lubricant and helping to safely remove the most harmful grime. Our Revolution Wheel Soap is a specialist wheel cleaner and shampoo in one, and ideal for stand-alone use on the most sensitive finishes, along with brushing in other cleaners such as Imperial Wheel Cleaner or Reactive Wheel Cleaner.

While it’s beneficial to apply a wheel protectant, a traditional car wax isn’t the best option. Wheels are subjected to intense heat and hot brake dust that can melt through normal wax layers. Instead use a ceramic coating or a specialist high temperature wax designed specifically for wheels such as Mint Rims Wheel Wax.

Car care professionals recommend using a tyre dressing only on dry tyres. This ensures they are not diluted and fully bond with the rubber surface.

Yes, a tyre dressing not only enhances the look, nicely finishing off your detail, but can protect your tyres from cracking and fading, along with providing a barrier to the elements. Our Satin Tyre Crème nourishes and conditions your tyres from within and also allows you to choose the level of gloss your require. One application installs a like-new satin sheen, but you can build up more layers for a wet-look, show car shine.

After rinsing your car fully to remove loose grit and grime, you must start with a contactless pre-cleaner, such as a citrus based pre-wash product, to remove the largest particle soiling. This is followed by using a snow foam to break down and lift bonded contamination. Only after these two pre-wash stages should you attempt to perform a two bucket contact wash. Auto Finesse has you covered with Citrus Power Bug & Grime Remover, Dynamite Traffic Film Remover and Avalanche Snow Foam for the perfect 2-stage pre-wash. For more details, visit our car cleaning pre-wash page.

Yes, pre-rinsing before using any cleaning agents removes loose grime and allows your cleaning products to get to work where they’re actually needed – on the harmful, bonded grime. By pre rinsing you’re not only making your cleaning products more effective by targeting their cleaning power, but you’re ensuring they’re not being wasted on grime that can be removed easily without them.

No, car shampoo is designed for use with a wash mitt during your contact wash, rather than during the pre-wash stages. There are dedicated pre-wash products such as Citrus Power Bug & Grime Remover and Avalanche Snow Foam, specifically designed to tackle heavy soiling before you make contact with sensitive surfaces such as paintwork. Using these specialist products prior to the contact wash stage is the best way to get the ultimate swirl-free wash.

Snow foam is a type of pre-wash cleaner but it differs from a spray-on pre cleaner in that it’s specifically designed to linger on the surface for as long as possible. Because snow foam is applied with a snow foam lance - which whips it up into a thick foam – this specialist pre-cleaner stays on the surface breaking down bonded contamination as it dwells. Snow foam safely lifts and surrounds potentially harmful particles, allowing them to be rinsed away without abrading the surface. We always recommend using a pre cleaner first to remove the largest gritty particles, followed by a snow foam to help break away slightly smaller harmful particles.

The longer a pre-cleaner or a snow foam is left to dwell, the more bonded contamination it can break away from the surface. The key is not to let any cleaner dry on the
surface. All pre-wash products are aqueous cleaning agents that use surfactants and degreasers, along with water, to clean on a molecular level. These need to remain wet to do their job safely. So, be sure to rinse away your cleaning solution, along with the grime it encapsulates, before it’s allowed to dry. 

A pre-wash is the initial step in safe
car-cleaning. Your pre wash stage loosens the most harmful contaminants before you contact wash for swirl-free paintwork. A regular wash may refer to the contact wash stage which is employed purely to address any remaining small particle grime after the pre-wash. You should never contact wash without carrying out a thorough pre-wash first.  

Some start their pre-wash on a dry car to attempt to maximise dwell time for their cleaning products. However, for the best performance and best results, we recommend thoroughly pre-rinsing and using your pre-cleaners and snow foams only on a wet, pre-rinsed vehicle.

The best products for pre-washing are available with Auto Finesse. Browse our collection and find the finest snow foam, citrus pre-cleaner, traffic film remover, all-purpose cleaner and more.

Not instead of washing, no. Although rinsing down your car can help get rid of some loose surface debris, it will never be enough for complete cleaning. Only car cleaning products can eliminate the bonded grime and the types of harmful contamination your car will be subjected to day to day.

Yes, always rinse your car from top to bottom before beginning your pre wash, this allows your cleaning agents to get to work where they’re most needed instead of on loose grime that could have been rinsed away first. In this way you won’t waste your car cleaning products.

The amount of usage, weather, time of year and individual preference all influence how often you should wash your automobile. To preserve the look and protect the coating on your car, it is generally advised to wash it once every two weeks or so, but more frequent washing may be necessary. The good news is that, using our surface-safe products and professional wash techniques, you can wash your car as often as you choose without inflicting damage.

Auto Finesse Lather Car Shampoo is formulated specifically for the safest contact wash, making it the perfect choice for most details. This pH-neutral shampoo contains advanced surfactants and degreasers that are gentle on paintwork while effectively removing dirt and grime without stripping protection layers.

Automatic car wash brushes have the potential to leave scratches and swirl marks on your vehicle’s paint, particularly if they employ harsh chemical solutions that strip protection layers. It is always advised to wash your automobile by hand to avoid abrading protection layers and inflicting paint defects such as scratches and swirl marks.

Only if you keep surfaces wet at all times. Cleaning products should never be allowed to dry on surfaces, they need water to work effectively. We always recommend avoiding direct sunlight or hot temperatures when cleaning any vehicle to avoid water spots and potential paint damage due to cleaning products and water impurities from drying on exterior surfaces. Wash your car when it’s cooler outside or in shaded areas to achieve the best results.

If your cleaning in winter lukewarm water in your bucket can prove more comfortable when washing a car. Extremely hot water can cause water and soap to evaporate too quickly, leading to water spots and streaks. In most cases though the combination of cold water and the correct detailing products will have no problem in completing all cleaning tasks.

We always recommend a three stage decontamination processbecause it’s highly likely that your car will suffer from contamination fromall three types that require different specialist products to remove.  For metal contamination that’s chieflyderived from brake dust Iron Out is the solution. Sticky residues and tar canbe melted away with a strong solvent like ObliTARate and a Clay Bar will removebonded protein and mineral deposits along with light overspray.

Decontamination should be carried out periodically only as and when it’s needed. experts recommend around twice a year, or beforepolishing, or before the first time you add a protection layer such as a wax orsealant. On a fully protected car you don’t need to decontaminate car paintworkevery time you perform a routine maintenance wash.

The decontamination or ‘decon wash’ process is part of thewet work on larger details. Performing all three steps, including fall outremoval, targeted tar and glue removal and clay barring is a process thatshould take less than half an hour.

A clay bar physically pulls bonded contamination out of thetop layer of your paintwork. As you run the lubricated clay across the surfaceyou’ll feel less and less resistance indicating that the contaminants are nowtrapped in the bar and not on the surface. What we aim to achieve is asuper-smooth glass-like finish.

Glide Clay Lube encapsulates debris when the clayingprocess is underway and causes the detailing clay bar to easily slide over thepaint or clearcoat. In other words, it creates a slippery layer that’s idealfor the clay bar to glide over the surface to cut down on the risk ofscratching and marring.

An iron fallout remover like Iron Out is specificallydesigned to chemically dissolve sharp metal shrapnel that’s embedded inpaintwork. Chemical removal that promotes a reaction to dissolve the metal intoa solute is the only way to safely remove this type of contamination. You cansee this reaction take place as Iron Out Turns blood red when metal is present,then the solute of Iron Out and metal can be safely rinsed away.

Iron Out is safe to use on exterior surfaces such aspaintwork, wheels and glass. As long as the solution isn’t left to dry, it willnot harm these parts of your car in any way.

ObliTARate Tar & Glue Remover is a powerful solventbased product that cuts through sticky residues and roar tar with ease, butit’s safe to use on all painted surfaces.

Car polish is used to restore and enhance paintwork and is particularly beneficial when starts showing signs of dullness or imperfections. This includes light scratches, swirl marks, a lacklustre appearance or oxidation. We also recommend polishing your car before applying a sealant, wax or coating to ensure maximum durability and adhesion of the protective layer. And to make sure you’re not locking in defects.

You don’t need to polish your car after every wash as this will remove the protection layers. Periodic polishing followed by adding protections layer can help preserve and enhance the appearance of your car. Your driving style, the condition of the paint and the exposure to outside elements can all affect how often you should polish your car.

Some common car polishing mistakes to avoid are:

• Not cleaning your car properly first
• Using poor-quality detailing products
• Applying excessive pressure
• Polishing an area that is too large in one go
• Using dirty or contaminated accessories
• Polishing in direct sunlight

The kind of paintwork and the necessary amount of correction determine which polishing pad is appropriate. Foam machine polishing pads tend to offer the best combination of cutting force and finishing abilities, these are advised for most paint correction processes. Our foam Machine Polishing Pads are graded from coarse (heavy cutting) to fine (refining) to help you choose the right product every time. Microfibre pads are reserved for the most severe defects that require heavier restorations.

The best for polishing a car safely is a dual-action polisher, otherwise known as a random orbital polisher. These devices successfully remove defects and enhance shine while minimising the chance of paintwork damage thanks to their random pattern oscillation. Both novice and seasoned detailers will find our MPX and DPX Dual Action Machine
Polishers to be extremely effective and user-friendly.

Yes, buying a car polisher is worth it if you are serious about keeping your car looking its best. In comparison to hand polishing, using a machine polisher for larger details helps to break down the kinds of polishes and compounds needed for removing the worst defects. Furthermore, you will have more control ensuring consistent results.

Abrasive products like car polish compounds and paintwork cleansers are used to remove surface flaws such as oxidation, swirl marks, and scratches. Instead of removing defects directly they level down the whole surface around it until the bottom of the defect is reached and it disappears. In other words they take away a tiny portion of the top layer to reveal a fresh layer underneath.

Yes, polishing products are made specifically for removing surface flaws like scratches and swirl marks from in the top layer of your paintwork or clear coat. The kind of paint and the extent of the scratches however, will always determine the specific grade of compound you need to cut through the defect.

Yes, you can use metal polish on a car, but only on the bare metal surfaces. Our Mercury Metal Polish is designed to effectively remove stains, oxidation and tarnishing from metal surfaces like aluminium, chrome, and stainless steel. Metal polishes use abrasive particles and cleaning chemicals that can be damaging to automotive paint. So, ensure the metal polish you use is only applied to specific metal parts like exhaust tips, brightwork or chrome trim.  

We recommend decontamination before waxing for the first time. This eliminates the contaminants from the exterior and stops them being locked in by the wax. It also prepares the surface to stop waxes and sealants failing to bond with your auto body properly.

No, premium waxes cannot damage paintwork, they contain no abrasives. When applying a thin layer is always recommended and waiting at least 4-hours for the first coat to cure before adding a second.

Washing a car with the wrong car shampoo can strip wax from the exterior. At Auto Finesse, we present professionals, car care enthusiasts and DIY detailers with powerful yet gentle car cleaners and shampoos that are wax, sealant and coating-safe. Enjoy a swirl-free finish with them without stripping your protection layers.

You can top up recently applied wax. Periodically adding another layer after your car wash prolongs the life and performance of the protection layers that are already there.

A car wax offers optimal protection, shielding the exterior from contaminants like UV rays, dust, and dirt. It’s also vital to ensure a lasting shine. You don’t need to wash your car immediately after waxing. When you perform maintenance washes, always pre wash, contact wash using two Detailing Buckets and one of our soft microfibre or lambswool wash mitts and a pH-neutral wax-safe cleaning agent such as Lather Car Shampoo. To prolong the life and performance of your wax, and to cut down on the risk of damage to the surface don’t use automatic washes, their abrasive brushes and harsh chemicals can strip off the wax.

Waxing not only safeguards a car’s exterior but also provides a deep shine to it. The wax layer fills in the microscopic imperfections to smooth the surface for light to reflect uniformly, giving the impression of depth and increased gloss. The presence of natural carnauba wax also enhances the finish with a warm glow.